A Cut Above: A Head – to – toe Custom Suit Primer

It’s easy to suit up in style when you get the proper fit. Here’s a modern-day head-to-toe primer on correct clothing fit from the expert tailors at Garmany of Red Bank.

Shirt collar

At least a half-inch of shirt collar should show above the back of your jacket collar. You should be able to comfortably slip a finger between your neck and the shirt. (The collar on a new shirt should feel a little loose, allowing for shrinkage.)


Shoulder width is the single most important aspect of it in a suit—most everything else can be adjusted by tailors. The top seam should end just a bit beyond the outer edge of your shoulder. If it extends farther, the sleeve fabric won’t drape smoothly, and the silhouette of your suit will look out of balance.


The width of your necktie should be proportionate to the width of your jacket lapels. Generally, the tip of the tie should just graze the belt buckle. Men taller than 6'1" and those with bigger midriffs, however, look better in ties that are a bit longer—but never below the bottom of the belt line.


High armholes and narrower sleeves are marks of the modern fit. Look for a smooth, curving line that extends all the way from the sleeve head to the cuff.

Sleeve length and shirt cuff

When you stand up straight with your arms relaxed at your sides, the jacket sleeve should end at the wrist bone, with the shirt sleeve showing below.


Your jacket should follow the contours of your body, curving in gently at the sides. If the buttoned jacket creates X-shape dripping, it’s too tight. The sleeve length should not extend past your thumb knuckle.


Your pants should appear slim—but not tight—from the waist to the ankles. They should be roomy enough that the fabric doesn’t hug your seat or thighs, and tapered somewhat below the knee. The bottom edge of your pants should just graze the top of your shoes.

Ready to suit up and find the perfect fit? Stop in to Garmany of Red Bank at 121 Broad Street, Red Bank, NJ 07701, call 732-576-8500 to learn more. Take a minute to relax in our lounge or bar or get an old-fashioned shoeshine while our on-site tailor shop crafts your perfect suit.